Flying back to Riyadh last month I had a 3 hour wait at Hyderabad airport. I wanted
one thing. Filter coffee, the proper kind, before another 6 months of machine coffee at my workplace.
The cafe near gate 14 had a board saying South Indian Filter Coffee, 180 rupees. I paid without thinking.
Then the girl at the counter pressed a button on a machine. I should have walked away right there.
It came in a paper cup with a lid. Brown, flat, no foam, and a sad skin on
top. I asked her, is there decoction in this? She said, sir, it's the filter coffee mix. A
powder, in a sachet. I stood there holding 180 rupees of disappointment and a plastic stirrer. A man
behind me said, same thing happened to me. I took 1 sip and left it on a bench.
First time I've ever wasted coffee in my life. At home my mother does it the old way.
Strong decoction, hot milk, and a steel tumbler with a dabara. My father pours it from one to the
other, high up, until a layer of froth sits on top. The high pour cools it down and
builds the froth. For me the froth is the whole sign. No froth, I won't call it filter coffee.
I'll call it brown milk and move on. I don't fuss about much else. Plastic chairs, steel plates, a noisy
fan, all fine with me. But if the board says filter coffee, make filter coffee. That's all I'm asking from anyone.
Does anyone know a cafe in Hyderabad that still does the tumbler and froth properly?
I'm back in March and I already know where I'm going first. Send me your place.