Went to a new cafe in Banjara Hills last week. They had Irani
chai on the board for 80 rupees. It came out the colour of tea
for a truck driver. Dark brown, strong smell, no malai on top at
all. I asked the waiter if it was Irani chai. He said yes sir,
special, extra strong. I said I didn't order special. He looked at me
like I'd insulted his mother. I drank half and left it. 80 rupees gone.
Irani chai should be light. A pale orange, close to the colour of a clay
pot after rain. The malai sits on top in a thin skin. Without it, you
just have tea with milk. I'm not saying dark tea is bad. I'm saying it's
a different drink and it needs a different name. My friend says I'm being fussy.
He drinks dark chai with 3 sugars and calls it Irani. We've stopped talking about
it. The place near my office does it right. 22 rupees, a steel glass, the
malai thin as paper. The owner knows I'll take it with an osmania biscuit and
a glass of water on the side. I go there at 4 and the same
5 men are always at the same table reading the same newspaper. Nobody has touched
that newspaper for 2 hours. I'd like to think that's what the tea does to you.
I took my cousin there last week, the one from Chennai. He asked for
coffee and I stared at him. The owner said they do coffee too, 30 rupees.
My cousin drank it and said it was the best he'd had. I said nothing.
I was busy with my tea, and I'm not commenting on his taste again. My glass
was hot and the malai was perfect that day. Sometimes the cup just comes out right.