I ate mirchi ka salan at a biryani place in Tolichowki yesterday and I'm still annoyed.
It was too sour. I could taste the tamarind before I could taste anything else at all.
The chilli was there but only as a background. The peanut and sesame base had gone missing.
I finished it anyway because I paid ₹80 for the cup. That's my weakness.
A good one has a thick gravy that coats the spoon. It tastes of peanut first.
Then the tang comes in slowly and the heat arrives last, near the back of your throat.
My grandmother made it on Sundays and I used to scrape the pot with my fingers.
She never measured the tamarind. She tasted from the ladle and shook her head a lot.
Some places make it too spicy, which is the other mistake. Then it's just heat and sweat.
I went to one near Charminar last year where my nose ran for 20 minutes.
My friend Imtiaz ate it with a smile on his face. I think his tongue had given up.
I'd rather have it dull than angry, but dull isn't fun either, so I keep searching.
The best salan I've had in the last 5 years was at a wedding, from a huge pot.
A man in a white apron was stirring it with a spoon as long as his arm.
I asked him for the recipe. He said, a bit of this and a bit of that.
I went back for seconds twice. I'm still angry about the restaurant one, though.