I had never paid a bribe in my life until last Thursday. My licence renewal had
been stuck for five weeks at the Tolichowki RTO office. Two visits, two different clerks, and both
said the file was pending verification without ever telling me what needed verifying. I took leave
from work for the second visit and lost the whole day standing in one queue and then
another, and the second clerk did not even look up from his phone while I explained the
whole thing again from the beginning. On the third visit a man outside the gate, no
uniform and no ID card, asked if I wanted it done today. He said 500 rupees and
I would be out by lunch. I stood there for maybe a minute doing the maths on
another lost day, which comes to about 1,800 rupees of salary. So I paid. The file
moved in twenty minutes. A clerk who had been so busy on my last visit suddenly found
the time to stamp three pages, and my new card arrived by post four days later,
which I did not expect at all. I had already pictured myself back at that counter in
November, holding the same photocopies and the same receipt, with a fresh excuse waiting for me. Nobody
looked at me differently afterwards. Nobody looked at me at all, and that is the part
that has stayed with me, how ordinary the whole thing felt for everyone involved. I keep telling
myself it was an agent's fee and not a bribe, and it is not working very well.
My father renewed the same licence ten years ago and swears he never paid anything, but
he also went in at seven in the morning and waited until two in the afternoon. Anyway,
the card is in my wallet now and I look at it every time I open it.