I had never paid a bribe in my life until last Thursday. My licence renewal
had been stuck for five weeks at the Tolichowki RTO office. Two visits, two different
clerks, and both said the file was pending verification without ever telling me what needed verifying.
I took leave from work for the second visit and lost the whole day standing in one queue and then another,
and the second clerk did not even look up from his phone while I explained the whole thing again from the beginning.
On the third visit a man outside the gate, no uniform and no ID card, asked
if I wanted it done today. He said 500 rupees and I would be out by lunch.
I stood there for maybe a minute doing the maths on another lost day, which
comes to about 1,800 rupees of salary. So I paid. The file moved in twenty minutes.
A clerk who had been so busy on my last visit suddenly found the time to stamp three
pages, and my new card arrived by post four days later, which I did not expect at all.
I had already pictured myself back at that counter in November, holding the same photocopies and
the same receipt, with a fresh excuse waiting for me. Nobody looked at me differently afterwards.
Nobody looked at me at all, and that is the part that has stayed with
me, how ordinary the whole thing felt for everyone involved. I keep telling myself it
was an agent's fee and not a bribe, and it is not working very well.
My father renewed the same licence ten years ago and swears he never paid anything, but
he also went in at seven in the morning and waited until two in the afternoon.
Anyway, the card is in my wallet now and I look at it every time I open it.