Everyone in this city talks about biryani and haleem. Harees hardly gets a mention. That's my complaint.
I had it at Barkas for the first time on a cold evening, with my friend Rehan.
I expected haleem. It isn't haleem. It's softer, smoother, almost creamy, and the wheat and meat
are mixed so well you can't tell where one stops and the other starts.
What I look for is the texture. It shouldn't be watery and it shouldn't be dry.
Good harees sits on the spoon and stays there for a second before it slides off.
If it runs off the spoon, they added too much water. If it clumps, it's been sitting too long.
The place I went to got it right, and I finished my bowl before Rehan finished his tea.
Eat it hot. I mean really hot, straight from the pot. Cold harees is a different and sadder dish.
I had mine with naan, tore it into pieces and dipped them in. That's a full meal for me.
The lanes around Barkas help too. The crowd, the smell, men standing outside holding their bowls and talking.
A restaurant with AC and a menu card can't give you that, however nice the plates are.
It's a simple dish. Not many spices, no tricks. Just meat, wheat and somebody patient stirring the pot.
My grandmother used to say the best food has the fewest things in it. I didn't get it then.
I do now. Every time I see a dish with 15 ingredients, I think of that bowl.
Sometimes simple just tastes better, and I'm not going to argue with my own stomach.
My younger cousins only want burgers and fried chicken now. I'm not against that, I eat it too.
But I took 2 of them to Barkas last week. One said it tasted like nothing.
The other one had a second bowl and asked when we're going again. So that's 1 win for me.
Is there another place in the city that makes it well? Tell me where.